Built to Last
Centuries
A genuine pashmina shawl, cared for correctly, will outlast almost anything else in your wardrobe. There are 18th-century Kashmir shawls in the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum, the Louvre, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in displayable condition — fabric that has survived two and a half centuries because the fibre itself is extraordinarily resilient and because the people who owned these pieces knew how to look after them.
The care rules for pashmina are not complicated. There are perhaps half a dozen things you should do and half a dozen things you should never do. Follow them and your shawl will soften and improve with every wash, becoming more beautiful over years and decades rather than less. Ignore them and even the finest pashmina can be damaged irreversibly in a single wash.
"Pashmina is not fragile — it is simply intolerant of heat, agitation, and harsh chemicals. Treat it gently and it will last longer than you will."
The properties that make pashmina so fine — the 14 to 16 micron diameter of Changthangi fibre, the loose fluid weave of the handloom — are also the properties that make it sensitive to the wrong conditions. Heat causes wool and cashmere fibres to felt irreversibly. Agitation causes the fibres to tangle and mat. Harsh detergents strip the natural lanolin coating that gives the fibre its softness. None of this means pashmina is delicate in use. It is in the wash where care is required.
Washing Your Pashmina
Correctly
Use cold water — never warm, never hot. The temperature at which wool and cashmere fibres begin to felt is lower than most people expect. Even water that feels only slightly warm to the hand can trigger irreversible shrinkage. Fill a clean basin, sink, or bath with cold water. In summer, if your tap water runs warm, let it run until it is genuinely cold before filling.
The best wash for pashmina is baby shampoo — specifically formulated to be gentle enough for newborn skin, which means it is gentle enough for 14-micron cashmere fibre. Alternatively, use a specialist wool or cashmere wash. Add no more than a teaspoon to a full basin and agitate the water gently before adding the shawl. Avoid standard laundry detergent, fabric softener, biological detergents, or any product containing bleach or optical brighteners.
Lower the shawl into the water and gently press it down until fully submerged. Press and squeeze it gently — pushing the soapy water through the fabric. Do not rub, do not scrub, do not twist, and do not wring. The fibres in a handwoven pashmina shawl are loosely interlocked; mechanical agitation will cause them to tangle and mat in ways that cannot be undone. Leave the shawl to soak for 10 to 15 minutes.
Empty the basin and refill with clean cold water. Press and squeeze the shawl gently again to rinse the soap through. Repeat until the water runs clear and there is no soapy residue. Throughout the process, support the weight of the shawl in the water — do not hold it up by one corner and let it hang, as the weight of wet fabric can stretch the weave. Two or three rinse cycles is usually sufficient.
Lift the shawl from the water supporting its full weight. Gently press it against the side of the basin to remove the bulk of the water. Then lay a clean dry towel flat, place the shawl on it, and roll the towel with the shawl inside — pressing gently as you roll. The towel will absorb a large proportion of the remaining water. Unroll. The shawl should be damp but not dripping.
Lay the damp shawl flat on a clean dry surface and gently reshape it to its original dimensions — approximately 70 × 200 cm for a stole, 100 × 200 cm for a shawl. Allow it to dry at room temperature, away from direct sunlight and away from any direct heat source. Do not hang the shawl to dry. The weight of wet fabric will stretch and distort the weave. Drying time is typically 6 to 12 hours depending on conditions.