Jali Embroidery

Making Of Sozni

SOZNI is one of the most sophisticated forms of Needle Embroidery in the world. This extremely fine, delicate and artistic needle work is only practiced in Kashmir and has no parallels anywhere else. Following are the processes involved:

Preparation of Design:

The Naqash or designer carefully draws the design to be embroidered on a graph paper using geometrical and mathematical techniques.

Carving of Wooden Block for Stamping:

Based on the design prepared by the Naqash a wooden blocked is carved by a wood carver specializing in shawl designs. He engraves the designs on a wooden block.

Stamping of Shawls:

The embroidery design is transferred to the shawl by a specialist called chapangur. The block is dipped in washable ink and stamped on the shawl.

Sampling of Colors:

The stamped shawl is passed on to a master artisan called tarah-guru who will do sample embroidery and determine what color are used in the embroidery.

Approving of Design:

Another master craftsman called Voste approves or asks for the changes in the design. Once approved the shawl is passed on to the artisan for embroidery who completes the embroidery based on the approved colors.

Washing in Spring Water:

The final washing is of the shawl is done in spring water with mild detergents and striking the fabric repeatedly against a smooth stone by a specialist washer.